"CHANEL circa 1965 - EXCEPTIONAL TAILLEUR in black Marescot - Lot 27

"CHANEL circa 1965 - EXCEPTIONAL TAILLEUR in black Marescot fantasy jersey with vertical herringbone pattern, tasselled with fringe, skirt, removable cuffs. (Missing claw, collar, waistband, slight marks). Bibliography: Similar model in the book "The Chanel Legend" exhibition at the Draiflassen Collection, page 108: "Marlene Dietrich probably bought the costume in autumn 1965. She evidently thought very highly of it since she wears it on numerous photos. The first photo from 1965 shows her with the famous dancer duo Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev. Photos taken a short time later verify that she wore it in her family circle at Christmas 1965, and in January 1966 at the opening of the cinema Translux Elysee 2 in Paris. In a group photo taken on 18 Marc 1966 during a spring fashion show in Maison Chanel, Marlene - again in the black costume - is seen at the end of a row of ladies all dressed in Chanel. (...) The warm woollen fabric of this costume, jersey with an unconventional sculptural chevron pattern, is very voluminous and maked the wearer look somewhat plump, which is why Marlene Dietrich ordered a second skirt from Chanel made of plain black woollen crêpe. The costume is lined with black taffeta. White and gold accents contrast with th black of the jacket: the removable cuffs attaches with press studs have gold cufflinks and are borrowed from men's fashion, as are the stand-up collar made of starched white cotton and the tie of black "chevron fabric". The buttons are formed out of a circle of rigid gold links and bear the curving CC monogram; however, the characteristic chain in the hem was left out. At the edges a fringed seam made of the chevron jersey lightens up the sober form of the winter costume. Vertical cute were made into the middle of the chevron V in the fabric pattern, the the cut edges folded back and sewn by hand so that only the points of the chevron were left on the seam. Since the photographs from the 1960s do not give a clear impression of this details, it is so difficult to judge whether it was the original or only a later date that twice-two black woollen threads were knotted in between each individual chevron and clipped along the length of the chevron seal. The chevron seam is given a vertical pattern direction in relation to the other weave and applied at the jacket edges in a single fabric layer and at the skirt hem in stepped double layer."""